Mt Anne circuit

Mt Anne is the highest mountain in the Southwest NP (1423m) and the Mt Anne circuit hike is classed as grade 5 – for self-sufficient, well-equipped and experienced hikers only, with specialised skills including navigation and first aid. Tracks are likely to be rough, very steep and unmarked. The region is subject to extreme, unexpected weather changes regardless of the forecast, and extreme winds and snow are common even in summer. The circuit beyond Shelf Camp is exposed, extremely difficult and usually requires pack hauling.

We had driven past the start of the hike already, on the way to the Western Arthur’s which is also a grade 5, and on the way back. We even popped in for a quick look at the sign, but we didn’t start the circuit then as the weather forecast wasn’t great. Three weeks later, in early March we spotted a weather window and decided to make the most of it, even though we were in Derby, about 5.5 hours away. When we arrived at the Condominium carpark Lara just ticked over 100,000km. The carpark wasn’t full and we quickly set up and prepared our packs before going to bed. The biggest job is always to prepare the food and we spent some time getting it all organised.

Lara’s location when she reached 100,0000 km

Lara ticks over to 100,000km!

The next morning we were just about ready to leave as quite a few more cars piled in, including ranger Claire. After a quick chat with her we registered in the book and set off. A German couple set off just before us, and a whole family group of 7. We quickly overtook the family group, most of them should not have been on the mountain. They were pretty clueless and some of them incredibly slow, they would struggle to make it to Shelf camp.

the carpark gets busier in the morning just as we are about to head off

Jude registering our walk in the book

cleaning your boots to ensure you don’t accidentally spread a root disease for plants

The path was groomed, including sections of boardwalks all the way to High Camp Memorial Hut. We made great progress time-wise, and popped into the hut for a look and a quick snack. It was overcast and a bit windy, so sheltering made sense. From Memorial Hut the track steeply ascends and it is no longer groomed. There are huge boulderfields to get through before we popped onto the plateau for some easier hiking. Until we reached the next boulderfield with some more massive boulders. Luckily there were plenty of cairns to show the way.

Jon with the view of Lake Pedder in the background

Jude hiking into the first boulderfield just past memorial hut

Jon in the boulderfield

we continue through the boulderfield, all the way to the top

on the top it is easy walking

Jon hiking on the top, there is still some snow from last night’s storm

Jude climbing around the boulders in the last field before we reach the saddle from where you drop to shelf campsite

At the junction we decided to go straight to Shelf Camp. There was still some snow and ice on the trail from yesterday’s inclement weather, so we didn’t think we could go to the top of Mt Anne anyway. We were the first to arrive at the campsite and we found a lovely spot on the slabs of rock to pitch our tent. Jon wanted to have a closer look at Mt Anne and took off on his own, and Jude soon had company as Dirk and Jo arrived as well as Aurelien and Ann (the frenchies). As there are not many places to pitch a tent, we were all quite close together. More people arrived, Dan and Hannah (the americans), Liz (from Adelaide) and Rolfe (Tassie) with Jess (American). The family group arrived much later, and we had left them their own area on the plateau to pitch their 5 tents.

Jude starting the descent to shelf camp, visible in the distance

our tent pitched at shelf camp with rocks and sticks, Mt Anne in the background

Jon hikes back to Mt Anne to have a closer look, can you spot our little tent pitched at shelf camp?

Jon as far as he got to the top of Mt Anne, sections still had ice on it from the storm so he didn’t think it was safe to go to the top

stunning views of the southwest wilderness

it gets busier at the campsite and there are not many places flat enough to pitch a tent so we get cozy. We are all cooking dinner here.

Shelf camp is a rocky area on the side of a mountain. A few sections are flat and big enough to pitch a tent, but you can’t put any pegs in so we all found rocks to use as pegs. Or bits of wood to put through the loops and then rocks on top of the bit of wood. It worked really well, but luckily for us we didn’t have to test it in extreme weather conditions. It was sunny and windstill, we had timed our hike well, as had many others.

We spent the evening chatting to everyone and admiring the magnificent views. A big topic of discussion was of course The Notch. The Mt Anne circuit is famous for it, it’s a tricky section on day 2 and we were all comparing notes. After it got dark, Jon managed to take some night sky photos, this is one of the perks of going to these remote places. It’s dark and millions of stars are visible, and without a moon these places are among the best in the world for stargazing if you are game enough to brace the cold.

Mt Anne and the night sky, so beautiful

The next morning Liz left first, we were not far behind and catch up soon as she is checking the route. It’s unclear where to go and as we are all looking, Rolf and Jess join as well. Rolf finds the way and we all follow. We decide to all hike together so we can help each other across the notch. Dirk and Jo also join so we are now 7. We quickly get to the infamous notch, and as we downclimb the first part of the notch, we have a look at the next bit. It doesn’t look that bad at all. Rolf goes up first, and we pass our packs to him after getting up the first ledge. It makes the second ledge a lot easier. Soon all 7 of us are through the notch and we contour the next section.

Jon and Jude with Mt Anne in the background in the morning sunshine

Jude in camp and the view at sunrise

breakfast with a view together with Dirk and Jo

it just got more beautiful every minute…

last views of Mt Anne before we head off

Jude next to a tarn that looks like it is half frozen, Lightning Ridge in the background

Jude on the way up Lightning Ridge

Jon at the start of day 2 with stunning views all around

climbing around some of the big boulders

Jon and Jude with Lot’s Wife visible in the background

view of the notch on approach, you go down on this side, up on the other side of the narrow saddle

looking into the notch from above, from the side of approaching from shelf camp

Rolfe and Jude heading down into the notch

and climbing out of the notch on the other side, this is possibly the hardest bit if you are small as you need to make the big step to the other side with your pack on, easier for people with longer legs

and then there is only the last ledge to climb up on, quite easy once you drop your pack onto the ledge

view from above, Jon climbing up the tricky bit

Jon on the trail after the notch, Lake Judd in the background

Jon and Jude on the Mt Anne circuit, Lake Judd in the background

Before we know it we are on top of Mt Lot. It’s only 11am, too early for lunch but we have an extended morning tea there. The views from the top are amazing, we can see Federation Peak to the south, and Frenchmans Cap to the north. After more than half an hour working out which peaks we are looking at around us, we start the descent. Lots of big steps and a fair bit of scrambling down a ridgeline, into a forest with short scrubs and ancient, moss-covered trees and ferns. From there it was not far to our next campsite at Lonely Tarns. But we wanted to enjoy the stunning weather and stopped for a relaxed lunch. We had our usual rye bread with cheese, avocado and sundried tomatoes, downed with a big mug of lemon iced tea.

on the top of Eve Peak, the weather is so good we spent a long time here (Jon, Jude, Rolfe, Jess, Dirk and Liz)

view from the top, Lake Judd on the right and our campsite for the night is on the other large lake on the far left hand side (Lonely Tarns)

layers of mountains, stunning

Jon, Jo and Dirk on the way down

Jo, Jude and Rolfe heading down the ridge, our campsite is on the lake at the bottom

Jude on the way down

view of Lake Judd and the Lonely Tarns

that’s the ridgeline we just hiked down

different environment once you are at the bottom of the ridgeline

we stop again, this time for a relaxed lunch

Another 500m later we were in camp. This was the big decision point for a few people. We decided to stay here, go for a swim and enjoy the rest of the afternoon in the glorious sunshine. Dirk and Jo also stayed, and so did Liz. But Rolf and Jes went on a bit further and the frenchies planned to go all the way to Lake Judd. A little later Hannah and Dan also popped into camp, they stayed as well. As there are 4 tent platforms we all had our individual space to pitch our tents, a big contrast to Shelf camp where we were less than a few metres from our neighbours all around us.

Jon at our campsite next to the Lonely Tarns

We go for a swim, but it’s a short one. The Lonely Tarns are pretty nippy and soon our whole bodies are tingling. A great way to end a sweaty hike though and we love it. In the evening we all sit together on our platform to have dinner and chat. It’s always great to meet new people and share these experiences with. Dan and Hannah are on holiday from the US, Dirk and Jo have lived in Melbourne for 7 years, quite their jobs more than a year ago and are traveling around before heading back to Germany. Liz came over from Adelaide to do the Mt Anne circuit as she spotted a weather window for it, she has some awesome lightweight gear which piques our interest.

Jude going for a swim in the Lonely Tarns

we all come together for dinner that night – Jude, Hannah, Jo, Dan, Dirk and Liz

Just as we are about to fall asleep Jon hears the telltale pitter-patter from a tiny animal around our tent. We have hung up our food again, but this little broad-toothed rat is keen to investigate if we have left anything within reach. Jude looks out her side of the tent and sees him (or her?) climbing over her backpack, trying to get into some pockets. There’s nothing there and the cute rat soon loses interest. Not much later we hear Liz zip open her tent to shoo him away. He’d gone over to check out the next tent platform. Clever little thing.

this is how we hang up our food if there are broad-toothed rats around but no big trees to string up a line in between

We took some more star photos when all the clouds had lifted. It was cold, but there was not much wind yet. That changed in the morning when we woke up to a stiff breeze. The breeze stayed most of the day and at some point the clouds came down too and we were walking through the fog. We were coming down the plateau at this stage and were walking through the scrub and mud, it sometimes resembled a little stream. But once down the mountain we hit a section with proper bog. It slowed us right down until we hit the boardwalks again. From then on it was easy walking above the buttongrass fields to the junction where you can turn off to walk to Lake Judd.

Jon at our campsite, it is a lot colder today as there is a stiff breeze blowing

Jon hiking towards Mt Sarah Jane

we reach the bog at the bottom of Mt Sarah Jane still in the mist

but after a slow slog through the bog we reach the boardwalks, still in the fog

We had lunch on the bridge across the creek at the junction before walking out to the Red Tape carpark on the road, mostly on boardwalks and groomed trails. When we reached the road, we were greeted by Rolfe and Jess. They had already picked up their van from the Condeminium carpark (Dan had ridden Rolfe’s bike) and had come back to see if we were there. How incredibly sweet! It saved us hiking the 8km on the road as Jon, Liz and Dirk hopped in the back with them to get our cars. After a group photo we all went our separate ways, it had been another stunning walk through an epic alpine environment and we were glad we had found another good weather window for this one.

we stop for lunch at the bridge that leads to Lake Judd – Liz, Dirk, Jo, Jude and Jon

Jon crossing the last bridge

group shot at the Red Tape Creek carpark before Rolfe drives everyone to the Condiminium carpark – Jude, Liz, Jon, Jo, Rolfe, Jess and Dirk

Next walk? We return to the Walls of Jerusalem, this time we head out with Karen, Blake and Tristan!